Vanity Sinks, Vessels, Consoles, and More!

Ah! The beauty of Fall in Maine. The leaves have dropped and we await with apprehension our first snow fall. I've raked the yard now 3 times. What a bunch of leaves I had! The election is over. Time to move on. The snowblower is all serviced. I've done my digery-doo and I'm ready to ski too. Oh, and Decorum has got just the best vanities and console selections imaginable. Styles, periods, different shapes and sizes, even ones for vessels of your choice. And Jon has brought in some kitchen accessories just right for an excellent holiday gift.

Just what is the difference between a bathroom vanity and a console? A vanity is a cabinet varying in size with drawers and doors. They come in many standard sizes (24", 30", 36", 42", 48" and so on). Some can be ganged up with side pod cabinets to form a double sink set up. Manufactures like Vanity Flair, Fairmont, and Ronbow (all of which we display) give "choice not chance" with beautiful granite and marble top/backsplashes, even some with a raised surface and integral sink. Don't forget to browse through our great selection of Vessel Sinks too.

A console bathroom sink usually has legs that are carrying a china, glass or stone top. Some will have a drawer, side drawers or none at all. Some will have towel bars or racks along the side or underneath. Neat! The plumbing is usually exposed but today one can get matching finish drain and plumbing feed components to match your faucet choice. There are so many choices today. Now you'll have a better idea what to look for. I always suggest that you go to Borders, get a cup of your favorite joe and look through all the Kitchen/Bath magazines to see finished rooms to give you a better idea of what you want. Do your homework then come in or e-mail us to find the style, finish and function you desire for your home.

My purchaser, Jon is great at picking out new and useful kitchen accessories just in time for Christmas. A sink grid, hot mat, possible sink top strainer from Switzerland. Oh those Swiss! AND when you are done with it, just roll it up for storage. Also the fastest selling item in the store are our two stainless steel basket strainers. One with a removable cutting board great for preparing all those veggies for Thanksgiving and holiday celebrations. I'm ready for that too! Don't forget to pick up a Maine granite rock drilled out to hold striking matches for the stove or fireplace. Oh so clever we Mainers are! Thanks Jon!

Gosh, 29 years of sourcing quality hardware means a vast amount of choices. Throw in a lot of acquired knowlege, tips and tricks, and its always an enjoyable visit to Decorum and Nostalgia Lighting. Until next time, think snow and make your Holidays an enjoyable and safe one. Visit us soon! Decorum Hardware, 231 Commercial Street, Portland, ME 04101, or Call 1-800-288-3346.

Cheers,

~ Nick

Summers End Brings New Fall Tub Choices

What a rainy summer! We had fifteen rainy days in July and another fifteen in August. But now September brings us my favorite time of year and the nicest customers. One older gentleman was in requesting a door security viewer with a cover. Well, I never had heard of one but wouldn't you know it, he had a picture of one with him. Sure enough there it was. He said "Did you know if you look backwards through one you have a 290 degree view of inside a home? Strangers can look inside your house!" he exclaimed. His desire was to block the look back through the viewer. I thought about this a second and asked him if he really thought there were a lot of "Peepers" out there? He got a grin on his face, leaned forward and said "Well yes, I am one. I peek at my wife all the time". Go figure! We all need more laughs these days. I enjoyed his unexpected humor...or was it candor? I am always looking for new items to bring into the store. I will now search for the Door Viewer with a cover.

Over the course of the summer we have brought in many new price beater items. You can now buy farmer sinks and designer kitchen/bath faucets at a much more reasonable budget minded price. We are doing our part to beat the high energy costs which are squeezing so many budgets. You can build or renovate and still put in quality hardware with style appeal.

Our showroom is brimming with new bath and soaking tub choices. Victoria & Albert, the Englishcast (one-piece castings of volcanic limestone) tub collection, continues to bring in exciting designs of deep tubs.

I like the shape of "The Amalfi" deep soaker. A free standing tub which could go in the middle of a room or against a wall. "The Como" is another contemporary looking free standing tub. For the traditionalist, Victoria & Albert has "The Cheshire" a double-ended 68" long soaker, "The Hampshire" a traditional looking old claw footed tub, and "The Shropshire" which is a popular slipper style tub with ball and claw feet. Of course there are more styles and sizes in their vast Englishcast collection, all offering free standing or feet in seven finishes. Pick the right fit for you, then call Decorum Hardware with any questions you might have or to place an order at 1-800-288-3346.

What is so great about Englishcast? It is as strong as cast iron but much lighter. The water stays warmer longer, which saves on your water and heating bill each month. They are easy to clean and you can even keep it polished with a car buffer and some compound if it should ever dull.

Dulling actually comes from using the wrong cleaner or a scrubby. Cleaners with pumice in them like your powder cleaners will put fine scratches in the surface as do the scrubby pads. Yes, they get rid of the soap film build-up, but at the price of fine webbing the surface of your tub and fiberglass or acrylic surfaces. Now you have given the soap film a surface to grab onto thus increasing the frequency you'll need to re-clean the surface, exacerbating the problem. As I have been told by a good friend, "there are no bad problems, only bad solutions". So use a liquid cleaner with no abrasives hidden in them. Dish detergent is great. It is a disinfectant and cleaner that is mild and does not scratch. Now that you have cleaned properly, apply paste wax with a car detail wax or spray detailer to protect. This gives the surface a shine and lets the soap film bead down the drain. All tubs and showers will last with the proper cleaning and protection.

Check out our many tub choices. We also have claw foot and pedestal cast iron tubs with beautiful porcelain finishes. Even a 4' tub for small spaces, but you have to love your knees to use that one.

Summer has not left yet, but the Fall months are beautiful up here, the best time to visit New England. Portland is a wonderful city, especially the Old Port on Casco Bay with fine architecture, restaurants, B&B's, and quality stores. So come visit, our store is right on the waterfront in the Old Port of Portland on Commercial Street. And it doesn't matter how far away you are, if it can be shipped to our door, then we can ship it to yours. We do whole house projects all across our fine country. Hope to see you soon. If not, check us out online and do send me your questions. Remember, we are a source for hard-to-find quality decorative hardware.

Cheers!

- Nick

Cararra Marble Sink and Stone Maintenance

Wow! Summer has finally arrived here in Maine along with some interesting new products on our showroom floor. I enjoy the beginning of our tourist season here in the revitalized Old Port of Portland, getting to meet new customers from all over the world. So many say, "I wish you had a store where we live. There is nothing like your store where we are." Well, actually we can be right at your door via our web site and/or a phone call. You can speak to us directly right here in beautiful Maine and not to some basement operation over in Punjab. Because we have so many product options available to us, it's virtually impossible to show them all. We do display many of the better options, but if you don't see what you're looking for on our web site or in our showroom, then please send e-mail with what you are looking for. We'll go to work to find it for you and send info or link you to a web site where you can see all of the choices.

Hey, what about that new Marble console on 1-1/2" satin nickel tube legs which can be wall mounted, vanity top mounted, or as a console sink on a Palmer leg system? It's the "Bordeaux Vanity" by Stone Forest. The Palmer sink legs are available in Antique Brass, Satin Nickel, and Oil-Rubbed Bronze. Lead/shipping time averages 6-8 weeks (special order item). It's brand new and will be added to our shopping cart at Decorum Hardware very soon! Here's a little more about it:

Carrara Marble Sink Dimensions: 36.5"W x 24"D x 6"H
Palmer Leg System Dimensions: 32"W x 22"D x 30"H

It's elegant and getting rave reviews on our showroom floor. Just one of many pieces of furniture with vessel sinks or stone consoles to choose from. Have a need? Give us a shout. Decorum offers a variety of pedestal and consoles sinks as well as an excellent online selection of vessel sinks.

Marble is a popular material for sinks and countertops, as well as a variety of options in granite, slate, and soapstone. Many of our customers want to know, what are the differences and maintenance issues? We all have preferences and know what we think would look the best, but don't necessarily know much about the actual stone. I found some web sites that offer the best answers for what is it and how to best maintain the surfaces. Stone Maintenance is one of them. Without rambling on about this, these boys do a proper job of explaining about counter surfaces. They did not however say anything about Soapstone . I found Vermont Granite, Marble, Slate, and Soapstone Co. has an excellant maintenance page for soapstone. These sites certainly have helped me understand more about stone surfaces. Now it is up to you to decide which stone you like best.

So many decisions to make when renovating or building a new home. Hope this has been of some help and keep checking in for updates and answers to your questions. In the meantime, summer awaits. Do stop by if you get our way on the waterfront of Portland, Maine (in the Old Port) and introduce yourself. Visit soon and enjoy our cities great architecture, history, stores and fine coastal restaurants. Take a boat ride and have some Lobster. Yum, sounds good to me! I'm headed for a Lobster Roll for lunch.

Cheers!

- Nick

Vanities, Console Sinks, Showers and More!

The weather is improving and so is the showroom at Decorum with many new displays. Can't find the right period or fit for a vanity replacement?

Check out Ronbow sinks, vessels and consoles. Wow! All the latest in styles and finishes. How about a solid china top with sunk-in bowl or choices of marble tops with different vessel shapes? Most of which are now available for purchase through our online shopping cart. Click on the following link for: bathroom vessel sinks. You have many size options to replace old vanities. Click on the image to the left to go directly to this item (the SHOJI Vintage Walnut Cabinet) on Ronbow's web site.

Building new? Double bowl console options can solve many issues for shaving or hairstyling. Vanity Flair as well offers furniture looking console and vanity choices. We can't download all the choices, so browse to their web sites, collect the part number for the item(s) you like, and we will be glad to order the one that meets your exacting need. Call Decorum at 1-800-288-3346. In most cases we can have these items shipped directly to your home or project.

In one of my last blog posts, I had mentioned Speakman shower heads. Well as it happens, a representative of Speakman contacted us and now we are a certified Speakman dealer. Their shower heads come in a variety of finishes as well as spray textures. Most of us like different water textures. Speakman offers a number of small to large rain making shower heads that adjust, and everything in-between.

I like their Ultimate Flow Control diverter valve over others, which mounts on your shower arm to divert your water supply to the shower head, or to a hand held shower on a slider bar. A nice solid brass casting with an easy working turn valve. You might want to replace just that on your dripping one now if you don't feel you need to replace the whole unit. Glad to order one for you. It is number S-2365. Specify the finish you prefer (Chrome, Brass, or Brushed Nickel). If you're local, then come check out our new displays. Otherwise, call Decorum at 1-800-288-3346. Or, click here to view some of the options we have available in our online shopping cart.

We handle many other lines of showers and accessories so you won't lack choices. Always "Choice Not Chance" at Decorum Hardware. I'll get into more shower accessory options in another blog so keep checking in now and then. We have lots of new products I'm excited to tell you about.

Looking for a hard to find plumbing or hardware item? Saw it in a picture but don't know whose it is? Send me a copy of the picture and if I don't already know who makes it, then I'll do my best to find it for you.

Always hardware accoutrement's of quality at a fair price at Decorum. Stop by or visit our web site soon. If it can come to our door, we can ship it to yours.

- Nick

Spring Anew

Phew! The snow has finally melted away. We had a beautiful April with little rain here in Maine, and now May has been cool and damp. It always amazes me, with all of those storms (two each week), 4' of snow, and all that work to clear the roads, driveways and walks so we can get out, yet our customers still get into Decorum. And in the end it all melts away replenishing our streams and rivers.

Just because we had all that snow does not mean we here at Decorum were doing nothing. There is always lots of work to keep the store and our web pages fresh with new products. Jon Trenholm our General Manager and Purchaser has been busy reviewing new hard-to-find and quality products. From interesting pickup items, faucets, and sinks to a great new line of lavatory consoles. I'll be including many new items in my future Blogs. Brian Kinney, our Office Manager, has been busy not only handling the office but is our key computer and web site manager. Some days I think he would rather have been shoveling snow and not numbers. I am grateful of both.

Nostalgia Lighting is my second business which I run in tandem with Decorum Hardware. Nostalgia Lighting started as a brass polishing shop with my Dad on a little side street down in the Old Port of Portland, Maine. It grew into lamp repair, and now is a custom lighting business located with in Decorum Hardware. Dad is gone now, but Burr Chase is the Lightsmith and doing a grand job designing and handcrafting purpose made lighting. Go to our website: http://www.nostalgialighting.com/ to see our standard fixtures, but remember they all can be modified to meet your exacting need. As for the old polishing shop on Wharf Street, it is now Portland's best restaurant (and we have many), named Street & Company. Hopefully you can visit both of us if you get to visit beautiful Maine.

The custom wall sconce above, and this two-light ceiling fixture (left), "The Ceiling-T", are only two examples of our custom fixtures designed and built in a small workshop tucked in the back of Decorum Hardware. In fact, the Decorum showrooms are filled with an array of example Nostalgia Lighting fixtures. Visit the store, or visit us online, you'll find plenty to consider.

Last fall, 2007 Nostalgia Lighting expanded with the addition of Northeast Lantern, a USA-made handcrafted exterior lighting company, making elegant thin tubular interior chandeliers, wall mounted and hanging lanterns, and driveway post lanterns. All are crafted in New Hampshire with solid brass or copper and a Lifetime Guarantee. We have posted most of their standard lanterns and chandeliers in the Decorum Hardware shopping cart. If you are looking for choices in quality USA-made exterior lighting fixtures in a period look, then check them out. Nice people too! They will also repair any of their lanterns if one should become damaged. An added value from Nostalgia Lighting and Northeast Lantern.

Future Blogs: I'll be showing you new products, including the latest in hot finishes and styles, as well as tips and tricks to help you whether you're building new or renovating. Stay tuned!

And please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about our products or your project concerns.

- Nick

NOTE: The fixtures in this blog post can be found in our shopping cart at the following locations:
1.) The wall sconce with square glass shade is a custom piece. Call the shop (207) 772-1096.
2.) The Ceiling-T: http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=550434
3.) Onion Style Lantern: http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=550387
4.) Candelabra Chandelier: http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=550445

Large Mail Box Solutions

QUESTION:

We need an extra big mail box since we get so many magazines, but I don’t like the looks of the traditional USPO boxes. Any ideas?

NICK'S ADVICE:

Decorum Hardware in Portland, Maine’s Old Port has some of the best choices of mailboxes in a wide variety of sizes, shapes and finishes. Certainly, mailboxes that will hold lots of magazines. There are stylish versions for the home consumer or commercial types for the business. Some lock, some come in a hammered copper, brass, antique brass or copper and stainless finishes as well as a choice of powder coat colors.

There are exterior, in the wall, cast front, locking door boxes and all types of on the post by the street boxes. Call 1-800-288-3346 to speak with a sales professional, or visit my store on Commercial Street in Portland, Maine.

The Shower Curtain vs. The Old Fashioned Victorian or Clawfoot Tub

QUESTION:

I have an old fashioned Victorian bathtub in our new old home. I love it, but it drives me crazy because the circular shower curtain is a real bother—it really encroaches when I’m in the tub. What can I do?

NICK'S ADVICE:

Damp and clammy Huh? This is a common question at Decorum since we sell many clawfoot style tubs with exposed shower risers and oval curtain rings. It really is the “Nature of the Beast” and there are not many ways to improve on the set up.

If your shower curtain ring is circular, then I would offer that an oval one would give you a bit more room if the walls and the ceiling will allow for the installation. I will also offer the suggestion that a custom larger circular or oval shower ring be ordered so at shoulder and waste height you have more room. Then the shower curtain could fall inside the tub at rim height. Some folks don’t like the curtain hitting the tub inside because mildew can form between the curtain and the tub where it does not get to dry. One could always put the curtain outside for better drying when finished showering.

Here are some of the options you can order from Decorum Hardware:

Round Shower Curtain Ring
http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=527548

Oval Shower Curtain Ring
http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=527545

Large Oval Shower Curtain Ring
http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=527550

L-Ring Shower Curtain Rod / Tub Surround
http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=527515

C-Ring Shower Curtain Rod / Tub Surround
http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=527516

D-Ring Shower Curtain Rod / Tub Surround
http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=527517

Complete Exposed Shower Kit w/ Round Shower Curtain Ring
http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=527554

That’s about the limit of possibilities to improve the encroaching shower curtain situation. However, Porcher has a large clawfoot tub with a partial glass enclosure and rain shower for a water-stinging price that starts at $5,400.00. Your choice, a larger shower ring, or I would be more than happy to sell you one of “The Cadillacs” of bathtubs. - Nick

Will Skylights Discolor My Furniture or Carpets?

QUESTION:

I want to install skylights in my home, but I’m worried that the direct light will bleach or discolor the furniture and carpets. What’s your experience?

NICK'S ADVICE:

My first experience was just that, I discolored my furniture and carpets. While this is a concern, you do not have to have that experience. Most skylight manufactures now have available UV protection tinted glass. Some companies also have shades, which can be drawn at peak sun times. Velux America has a variety of skylights, sun tunnels, roof windows and blinds, shades and insect screens. You can see their products on their web site www.velux-america.com. They have many sizes and options. I’m sure you will find all your concerns will go away so you can enjoy the wonder of natural light in any room.

Protecting Your Cellar from Heavy Seasonal Rain

QUESTION:

What can I do to protect my cellar from becoming damp after a heavy season of rain?

NICK'S ADVICE:

UGL DRYLOK ® Masonry Water proofer is an outstanding product. Sales show it to be the best waterproof product by the Masonry Merchandising industry. It can be found at most lumberyards and hardware stores. I have even found some bargain gallons at Marden’s. I use DRYLOK myself. Not just for old cement foundations. I suggest any exposed cellar wall should have this applied besides having a sump pump installed to carry any moisture outside of the foundation. This can take the water pressure above the cellar floor and grade level away so it does not have a tendency to seep through the foundation wall or floor.

UGL DRYLOK has many products for a wide variety of projects for the do-it-yourselfer or professional contractor. There are waterproofing paints for interior and exterior, above or below grade masonry walls, cinder and concrete blocks, stucco, brick, retaining walls, basements and even concrete swimming pools. Both of their oil based and latex based paints come in White, Blue, Beige, and Gray. They have penetrating treatments, floor paints, concrete protectors, cleaners and degreasers, powder paints, etching formulas ‘fast plugs”, and bonding agents. Wow! They really cover it all! You can see all of their products and get application directions as well as technical data on their web site http://www.ugl.com/.

Some notes of concern. DRYLOK is definitely an excellent product, however you should find out where your water is coming from and first try to solve that situation. As mentioned before, sump pumps are always helpful. Most of the moisture around your foundation comes from your roof during a rainstorm. You should have gutters and the proper pipe system to carry the water away from your foundation. A dehumidifier is a must in a damp cellar especially if there is inadequate cross ventilation. I have an air dehumidifier which draws air from the floor level since cool damp air settles and then vents it out a cellar casement window. It can dehumidify the whole house. I like it better than having to empty a water collection bucket or letting it drain into a sump hole if you have one. I picked mine up at Seavy’s Appliance.

DRYLOK® is the way to go. Look into its features and follow directions. Good prep work before applying will guarantee a dry cellar.

Should I Use a Programmable Thermostat?

QUESTION:

What’s your opinion on those programmable thermostats? Do they add more convenience? Are they easy to operate?

NICK'S ADVICE:

A modest electronic device mounted on the wall that controls the comfort of your family on the coldest day in January and the hottest day in July. Seems like a programmable gadget could have some cost saving attributes since we sometimes forget to turn the thermostat down and by maintaining the highest or lowest required temperatures for four or five hours a day instead of 24 hours. “A programmable thermostat can pay for itself in energy saved within four years.”, says an energy efficiency study by the U.S. Department of Energy.

We know a thermostat is a temperature sensitive switch that controls a furnace or air conditioner, which heats or cools your living space. We manually move a switch up when it gets too cool and down when it gets too hot. One manually has to remember to do this to keep the house within our comfort range.

The Department of Energy says, “A common misconception associated with thermostats is that a furnace works harder than normal to warm the space back to a comfortable temperature after the thermostat has been set back, resulting in a little or no savings. The fuel required to reheat a building to a comfortable temperature is roughly equal to the fuel saved as the building drops to the lower level and the next time heat is needed. So the longer your house remains at the lower temperature, the more energy is saved.

They also tell us about another interesting misconception. “The higher you raise a thermostat, the more heat the furnace will put out, or the house will warm up faster if the thermostat is raised higher. Furnaces put out the same amount of heat no matter how high the thermostat is set--the variable is how long it must stay on to reach the set temperature.” Some good info to know.

Now lets get onto Programmable Thermostats. These new generation residential thermostats are based on microprocessors and sensors with the following functions:

They store and repeat multiple daily settings, which can be manually overridden without affecting the rest of the daily or weekly programs.
They can store six or more temperature settings a day.
They adjust heat or air conditioning turn on times as the outside temperature changes.

There are five basic types of programmable and automatic thermostats:

Electromechanical - The easiest to operate with manual controls work best with conventional heating and cooling systems but not with heat pumps. They have limited flexibility and work best for those with regular schedules.

Digital - having LED or LCD digital readout and data entry pads or buttons with the widest range of features and flexibility used with most systems. They provide precise temperature control with custom scheduling. Programming can be complicated so be sure you know how to use it remembering, “you won’t save energy if you don’t set the controls correctly,” says the U.S. Dept. of Energy.

Hybrid – a combination of digital controls and manual to simplify use and flexibility.

Occupancy – maintains setback temperature until someone manually presses a button to call for heat or cooling. Simplest of units best suited for spaces not occupied for long periods of time.

Light sensing – or heat sensitive thermostats designed primarily for stores and offices where occupancy determines requirements.

There are a bunch of questions you should ask yourself before choosing a programmable thermostat. Where does the power for the clock come from? Does it have a battery back up? Is it compatible with your furnaces present circuitry? How precise is the unit? And are the unit’s instructions easy to understand with an instruction sheet on the back of the cover.

One should always consult your HVAC contractor as to what unit will work best with your furnace and always have a certified technician do the installation.

Once all is in place and the technician has instructed you on its operation, you should have no trouble maintaining a comfortable and efficient temperature in your home.

Protect Your Old Wood Floors

QUESTION:

Our new home is 100 years old. It has some old wide hardwood floors. I can’t afford to have it refinished now, but it has some wear on it. What’s a good short-term solution?

NICK'S ADVICE:

Not only is it costly to refinish floors, but it is dusty and dirty. In an old house, the sanding dust will creep into everything. You really have to put up plastic, remove all the furniture, and have a large exhaust fan available. Always worth the effort because they sure look great when refinished. I don’t blame you for not wanting to get that involved. There are some ways to save old wood floors and to prevent further damage.

First of all, lets be sure you are using a proper cleaner on the floor. Some cleaners actually damage finishes, especially old ones. And, any water penetrating into the wood of course darkens and damages the appearance of the old floor. Murphy’s Oil soap is one of the best-finished wood floor cleaners. Murphy’s is water based so only good on finished or sealed floors. If you have exposed wood do not use it. It is important to know what type of finish is on your floor. This will be your first step in getting more life out of your floor by using a good product for when you need to clean your floors.

You really need to understand about wood finishes, so I have turned to an article by the good people at Murphy’s Oil Soap.

Article from Murphy’s Oil Soap:

“Finishes are coatings applied to wood surfaces as a protective barrier. (A wood stain colors the wood but, unlike a finish, provides no protection.) A finish handles a number of jobs:
Prevents deterioration of the wood due to abrasion and heat, maintains the wood's proper moisture level, preserves and protects wood, accentuates the wood's natural beauty, and adds shine to wood.

Protective Coatings: Most protective coatings are either penetrating finishes or surface finishes. Surface finishes like varnish, lacquer, or shellac form a protective layer over the wood surface. Polyurethane, a varnish, is the most common surface finish on wood floors. Penetrating finishes are absorbed into the wood and harden to create a strong protective barrier that will not flake off. Unlike surface finishes, penetrating finishes actually harden the wood and are easy to repair -- just add more. Penetrating oil and tung oil are examples of penetrating finishes.

When to Refinish Your Wood Floors: If your wood floor finish looks dull and lifeless, give it a good cleaning to remove accumulated dirt and wax. If the finish remains dull even after cleaning, it's time to refinish. Higher-traffic floors will require refinishing more often.

First, determine the type of floor finish by rubbing your hand on the floor. Do you feel a slight oily residue? If so, the floor has been coated with a penetrating oil. If there is no oily residue, and the floor has a shiny or glossy appearance, then it likely is coated with polyurethane. In an inconspicuous area, scratch the surface of the floor with a coin. If the finish flakes off, a surface finish such as polyurethane was probably used.

A water-based or water-dilutable cleaner like Murphy® Oil Soap is only recommended for surface finishes. To ensure your floor's beauty, it is always important to know which type of finish has been used.”

Ok, now that you understand something about wood finishes. I’ll mention that Skidmore’s has a great finish enhancement cleaner and sealer that could be applied to spots. Min Wax also has wood finishes and waxes. Remember you must first determine what the present finish is on your floor. With some great products on the market today you might just be able to buy some time before having to refinish your hardwood floor.

Bathroom Heat Lamp vs. Towel Warmer

QUESTION:

I’m looking ahead to cooler weather, I’d love to install a heat lamp in my bathroom for those chilly mornings. What would you recommend, and how should I go about it?

NICK'S ADVICE:

I take it you don’t have a lot of heat in your bathroom or it is not up and warm by the time you are getting ready in the morning. There are several types of heat lamps. Conventional type using heat bulbs and infrared which heats surfaces by radiation and need to be at least 18” away from any person or surface. Heat lamps feel good and give you heat but can be somewhat more involved to install, which means a costlier installation. You may not want to tear up your ceiling to allow for a large box to allow space to hold the hot light can. And one heat lamp usually is not enough. You will need a good electrician to meet all codes. It would be wise to put it on a separate breaker in your breaker box.

However, I have an alternative idea for you...a heated towel warmer! Oh, for the feel of a warm towel when you get out of the tub! Not only does it heat a towel but will also heat the bathroom. If you install one instead of conventional heat it works for you and pays for itself. One can be added to supplement existing heat. There are many types one can buy from inexpensive to expensive with every thing in between. One can get a plug in or you can hot wire direct. A plug-in would mean no installation fees. There are floor-standing types in different sizes, and wall mounts if you have the space. Some are cottonseed oil filled (having the best heat conductivity) and some are by heat element. Some have hot water from your furnace running through them and some even connect to the hot water feed to the shower so while you are showering the water on the way to your shower is heating the towel bar. Can’t you just feel that warm towel now? And you heated your bathroom at the same time.

We at Decorum Hardware would be glad to show you all the different types and options of towel warmers. Sounds like a better option for you. Do look into heat lamps. Your electrician and certain hardware stores can better show you choices and installations.

Shown is a Myson wall mount direct plumbed towel warmer. They come in many configurations for wall mount or free standing. Some have circulated hot water off the furnace and some are oil filled electrically heated either plug-in or direct wired.

Asphalt Shingles vs. Wooden Shake Shingles

QUESTION:

We’re adding dormers to the front of our Cape Cod style home. It has a regular black asphalt shingle roof, but since I’m going to have a contractor up there tearing it up to add the dormers, I thought I might go ahead and have the whole roof redone with wooden shake shingles. How much more does that cost to do than the regular roof? And is it worth the investment?

NICK'S ADVICE:

Oh! I have wrangled with this myself. What a great look! Well, you should redo the roof now. A bit of it is going to be torn up anyway and replaced so you will save some expense to do it now. Wooden Shakes (“Shakes” seems to be a new term), shingles have come a long way. First you should check your local codes. Not all wooden shingles meet code. There are different types of fire resistant wooden shingles so you will have to see which ones are acceptable with your local code enforcer. Then I would check with what your home insurance company has to say about it.

Check some local roofers to see if they install wooden roofs. Be sure they have done them before. I would get a professional from out of state if there is no one local who does wood installations.
In review, check your local codes first, then your insurance company. If you can proceed, then look into product and installers, and at the same time compare prices. Wooden shingles can really make the house and should last 40-60 years with the proper maintenance.

How to Repaint or Refinish Old Radiators

QUESTION:

We just moved into an old home that has radiators. I want to remove the covers that are on them, but I’ll need to repaint or refinish the radiators themselves to look presentable. What’s the right way to do this?

NICK'S ADVICE:

The warmth of those old radiators, and if you have one in the bathroom you can put a towel on it in the winter to have a hot towel to dry yourself with…now that is real old luxury! Best to check the condition of the radiator and plumbing fittings first. Make sure it is not heavily rusted and that all fittings are tight and not leaking. Radiators do wear out so have a professional serviceman check them out. While you’re at it make sure the furnace is up to snuff to continue heating the house safely.

Now, if all is in good running condition let’s look at the present finish on them. Most had at least one silvery looking coat of paint on them from way back. If that is all there is and it is in good condition a good cleaning is in order to wash any grime and dust collected over the years from under those funky covers. This silver coat of paint, if in good condition, can act as a primer for the new paint your going to apply. I will caution you now that the silver paint and any other older layers are most likely a lead based paint. Any stripping, scrapping or sanding should be done with great care not to let the lead dust residue release into your home, especially if you have children. If you can afford it, the best thing to do is to remove them and send them out to a sand or plastic bead blaster to eliminate the problem. They do a beautiful job of getting layers of paint out from all the ornate castings for a beautiful textured finish on the radiator. Then apply an etching primer and your paint color choice. Be sure to ask at the paint store for a paint that can deal with heat. Most hardware stores have stove paints, and car parts stores have heat paints for dressing up engines. You may find a latex paint over a metal etching primer will suffice. It would give you more color choices.

Other than the lead situation, enjoy those radiators!

Corian vs. Granite

QUESTION:

What’s the difference between Corian and granite? They seem to cost about the same.

NICK'S ADVICE:

The simple answer is, Corian is a patented synthetic material made by DuPont. Granite, slate, soapstone and marble are natural stone. Corian is a bullet proof stain resistant material having a few competitors (i.e. Swanstone, Silestone, and Avonite). Corian has the most color choices, is still probably the most expensive with the others following close behind. All have solid colors and synthetic stone looks to match the natural stone appearances. DuPont just came out with Zodiaq which has a quartz sparkle appearance to simulate granite with the same qualities as Corian.

Your natural stones, granite, marble, slate, and soapstone have wonderful natural colors particular to the specific stone and origins around the world, and therefore you can find varying prices if out shopping product and sources. Each has its qualities and drawbacks. Some scratch easy but can be buffed out. A freak hit may crack the stone. This can be patched however you will see the crack. I find stone to be a cold material however the beauty of natural stone sure is nice.

Both can be cut to order any configuration with a desired edge choice. You can get polished, flat and/or matte finishes in both products.

I suggest checking them all out and do shop for the best price. I would be glad to recommend some sources by giving me a call at 1-800-288-3346 (ask for Nick). We are particularly lucky to have some of the prettiest granite right here in Maine.

My Door Knobs Are Too Low. Is There a Way to Move Them Higher?

QUESTION:

My door knobs and locks are too low. Is there any easy way to move them higher? Or am I better off getting a new door?

NICK'S ADVICE:

I can only imagine you are a tall person or someone has cut the door wrong. Assuming this is a solid wood door and you have the small mortise lock mechanism or tubular latch, remove the knob and trim. Then remove the mortise lock or tube latch from the edge of the door. Now you can reposition the mortise lock or latch up the door to a desired height after you have refilled the void. If you have a mortise lock you will have considerable work to do to mortise out a new space for the lock to fit. If you have a tube latch, usually a 1” wood hole drill bit will do the job. The strike can be lined up after the latch is in place. Make sure to align all parts before drilling. Sounds somewhat simple but a lot of fussy work. And then you will have to repaint the door.

New doors on the other hand, you can buy predrilled and then pick up a good passage latch, which of course we can help you with at Decorum Hardware.

HINT: Some lumberyards and Home Depot’s have slightly blemished doors and can be bought much cheaper than a new one. Be sure to do your homework and bring the measurements of your door size. The door may need to be trimmed if you don’t find an exact match. Your call, either way will include some fussy work.

Can I Paint The Old Plastic Tile in My Bathroom?

QUESTION:

Our new old home has ugly old 1950’s plastic tile in the bathroom. Without renovating the whole bathroom is there a way to paint those pink plastic tiles?

NICK'S ADVICE:

My research for this went in several interesting directions. This is a more common problem than I had thought and thus there are several ways to paint plastic tiles. I will give you three options to consider. They include, covering the tile with a waterproof panel, hire a paint-resurfacing professional that does old bathtubs, or paint it yourself.

The first option if you are handy can be inexpensive. Home Depot has some waterproof paneling choices. These could be glued up with some molding caulked and nailed at the seams and corners. This may buy you some time until you are ready to renovate the whole bathroom.

The second option, have a professional tub refinisher come in and apply a new finish of your choice to your properly prepared tile surface. This will look good. You will get a guarantee from them but it may cost you more than you want to spend.

And third, paint it yourself. As with all painting projects the quality of the prep work is most important to get a good lasting finish on any surface. So, fine sanding is required in order to be sure all residues of any kind and loose surfaces are removed. You should speak with your local paint store as to which products are best to use. I would suggest a good etching adhering primer. Zineer makes a B-I-N product that you should ask about. Acrylics will not work and eventually peel. After the primer has properly dried use epoxy paint or what the paint store suggests. Be sure you are speaking with a qualified sales person with some plastic surface experience.

More Water from my Showerhead

QUESTION:

I just bought a new condo. It’s relatively new but the bathtub has a low-flow showerhead and it’s driving me crazy. I get a weak spray instead of a good relaxing stream of water. What can I do?

NICK'S ADVICE:

Low-flow showerheads were meant to save on water usage. Today all showerheads are supposed to have a flow reducer in them to save water. That said, you have a world of choice today. Many you can see at Decorum Hardware in Portland, Maine.

It is easy to replace your present showerhead with a new one. Most are on a ½” IPS arm and most all showerheads have a 1/2” reciever. You will want an adjustable wrench and I like to use a piece of leather so as not to scratch the new finish. Basically remove and replace. Be sure to use some Plumbers Tape (Teflon) on the threads before attaching the new one.

Your choices range from 1” (which you probably have) to 12” or better pan showerheads. The “sunflower” or pan showerheads give you a rain like texture straight down shower with no adjustment. Some of the larger pan types have a big plenum inside, which needs a lot of water pressure to keep a full flow. This can drain the water heater fast so keep that in mind (if you don’t like your fuel/water bill) when buying a new showerhead. Speakman Company probably makes the best domestic adjustable showerheads in many finishes and sizes. Grohe and Hans Grohe make really neat adjustable hand spray showerheads, which can be fixed in an open bracket to the showerhead or removed from its bracket for use as a hand spray. So many choices! Ondine has a large pan shower head hitched to a computer and fiber optics so you can have different color light enhanced water sprays. Go Figure! Costs about the same as a whole bathroom!

Here are two of many options available at Decorum Hardware:

If you have plenty of water pressure coming into your home, you might try something a little more exotic, with PLENTY of water for a full-body shower like this Anystream Dual Showerhead:
http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=522225

Or here's the single version of the Anystream Showerhead:
http://www.decorumhardware.com/catalog.asp?prodid=522228

You can also get a variety of shower arms to extend out farther or raise the height up or down to best suite the user. We all have our own preference of water texture from our showerhead, an adjustable showerhead seems like a good choice. Visit with the sales folks at Decorum Hardware, or call 1-800-288-3346 to discuss options that suit your needs. Decorum's online catalog is not a full-line catalog. There are MANY more options available in-store.

Garbage Disposal vs. Septic System

QUESTION:

I was going to install a garbage disposal, until someone told me that I couldn’t since my home has a septic system. Why not, and are there any alternatives?

NICK'S ADVICE:

This question always has its pros and cons. Let’s first ask how old and in what condition is your septic system? Some early old stone septic systems, if not abused and have had activating ingredients added, will still work very well. They do need to be cleaned out and flushed to maintain they’re proper function. Then add an active bacteria ingredient to make the system do its job. Septic systems work by bacteria breaking down the solids into liquids, which then leeches away into the ground. When the wrong chemicals have been dumped into the system such as paints, oil products, and cooking greases, they kill the bacteria thus your system stops functioning properly and does not always recover. That is why it’s important to add Rid-X on a regular basis. I have a friend that adds dried horse manure to keep up a fine working break down of solid wastes.

There are all types of new systems with researched advancements to improve the function that do not harm our environment. However, they still need bacteria to work properly with good chemicals in them.

Now, about that garbage disposal. If your system is the proper size and functioning properly, I see no harm in using it. After all, it is helping to break down the food wastes before heading into the system. Food wastes actually can turn into bacteria and a packet of additive always helps once a month. On the other hand if your septic system is borderline, a garbage disposal will probably stress it out. A good cleaning and out-pipe check for proper flow is advisable to ensure the system is capable of handling more waste. Old cast iron out-pipes may have a diminished inside diameter from waste build up. A smaller diameter sometimes can not handle waste sediment which clog and back up. Getting them cleaned or replaced with PVC will prevent back-ups.

When buying a disposal, be sure to buy a good brand and ask how they chop up waste and to what size. The finer the mincing the better off you will be. I discovered HydroMaid at the Kitchen & Bath Show. It is a hard rubber round casing with stainless steel teeth and, get this, it is run by your water pressure with no need for any electricity. It can chop up a glass bottle (I do not suggested you try it) and if you drop a utensil down into it, it won’t grind or hurt it. Go figure!

Old Door Knobs That Are Loose or Hard to Open

QUESTION:

My late 1800’s home has old door knobs that I love, but they’re loose and sometimes hard to open. What can I do? I don’t want to replace them, but they’re driving me crazy.

NICK'S ADVICE:

Well I’ve got some cures for those old knobs. Use and abuse have taken their toll. The knobs become loose from not keeping the screw tight that holds the knob to the spindle, also known as the shank. And from losening or maybe someone never put shank shims over the shank in between the knob and the back plate thus tightening up the seating in the escutcheon plate. All escutcheons whether round or rectangle have a seat which a knob or lever sits in. If the knob or lever is not snug but loose fitting, it puts a strain on the latch or lock set in the door. It is working cocked. This wares on the inner tumblers and possibly is the cause for the doors to open hard. Also check that the hinges holding the door are all screwed in tight. A door not hung square will cause the latch to rub on the strike. The friction will make the door work hard. All this can cause a mortise lock or latch to break. Old ones are abundant. Bring your old one to your local salvage store: Portland Architectural Salvage, or Old House Parts in Kennebunk. Or try a good local locksmith shop. They should have shank shims too. Your lock may just have worn out from being loose for so long. The good thing is you have lots of replacement options, either new or salvage from Decorum Hardware.

The Best Way to Remove Wallpaper...with Vinegar?!

QUESTION:

Someone told me the best way to remove wallpaper is to use vinegar. What’s your advice?

NICK'S ADVICE:

Yes, it does work. However the smell of lots of vinegar can be a bit much. The residue will soak into the old lathe, sheet rock, or wall board. I don’t think you will like the smell hanging around a while unless you like it with “fish and chips”. It can also be too acidic which can break down some old plasters and that is not a good thing either. Best stay away from any acid paper removers. Most hardware and paint retailers have all kinds of good wallpaper removing products. Tell the sales person how old the wallpaper is and on what, if you know, and they will show you the best product.

Old wallpaper was usually applied with water-based glue. I find Ivory liquid mixed ¼ to 3 parts warm water in a spray mister bottle works best on old layers of wallpaper. Keep the paper moist. Let soak a bit and using a sharp putty knife peel the paper off. Once the paper is removed spray again and wipe with damp cloth to remove any residue glue. This also washes the wall preparing it for paint or wallpaper. Not messy and not a smelly procedure. Do use a drop cloth to keep water and paper from sticking to a carpet or a finished floor.

For more recent wallpaper that has stronger glues and where the wallpaper does not peel off (some actually do), you can buy a small round palm size roller, which has little teeth on the roller wheels. Using circular motion of about 12” go over the wall to be stripped thus perforating the wallpaper surface. Then buy some DIF wallpaper remover. Spray on allowing the DIF to penetrate through the little holes you previously made. This usually takes a lot of patience. Keep the paper wet. Today’s wallpapers are usually waterproof so the water needs to seep in the little holes (be sure you make plenty) and loosen the under glue. Not fun! Rates right up there with moving. You can always rent a steam remover if you really want a mess. These sometimes work better but what a contraption, mess and an added cost.

Keep the vinegar in the salad. Try Ivory soap.

Top Brand House Paint is Peeling!

QUESTION:

My house was painted two years ago. The painter said he used the top brands. But it’s starting to peel significantly after this harsh winter. What’s the best way to deal with this situation?

NICK'S ADVICE:

There are all kinds of reasons for paint to peel. I’ll cover some of the common reasons assuming the reputable painter used a quality brand of paint. Preparation is the MOST IMPORTANT factor in making paint adhere. The surface must be prepared properly and thoroughly in order to make the paint stick to new wood shingles or clapboards or a previously painted surface. All loose surface or old paint needs to be removed. Any dirt, grease or foreign material must be washed off with a non-residue cleaner. The quality of paint does not make a difference if the surface is not prepared right. “Do it right once the first time” as the saying goes.

I’d like to say a few words about power washing. I’ve heard some pros and cons about cleaning the outside of your house this way. Moisture is the next reason for paint to peel. A power washer BLASTS water via high pressure up and under your shingles, clapboards or siding. You need to BE SURE you thoroughly let the under sides dry out before painting otherwise you will trap the moisture behind the paint which eventually will make the paint peel. You can turn the pressure down on some power washers. They sure get the house looking clean, but at the price of maybe your house paint peeling. Something to consider!

Moisture (water vapor) underneath the siding will certainly make your paint peel. Lets look at some sources of moisture. As mentioned, power washer blasting. Open cracks, seams and rotten or not properly caulked trim boards can allow moisture that over time allows water to travel underneath trapping the damaging water vapor. Bad or no gutters allow water to seep in behind. And a harsh winter creates ice dams on the roof edge allowing water to penetrate up under the roof shingles and edging which drains into exterior walls causing not only paint damage but possible interior plaster damage too. You can prevent ice dams by properly insulating your roof area, rake snow off your roof after a heavy snow fall or a melting wire can be added to prevent the ice dam from forming. Some folks have a copper or galvanized tin sheathing added to the roof edge up a foot or two to allow snow to fall off, and it is harder for an ice dam to build up on it.

You may want to check out your attic. If your roof area in the attic is not adequately vented, warm house water vapor condenses in the cool attic and penetrates out into the eves where it diffuses down the walls under the siding or gable ends where it can damage the paint once again.
Your house should have a proper water vapor barrier. Cooking, bathing, and clothes dryers can add humidity to the interior of your house. If your walls have no vapor barrier (usually a plastic material) interior moisture during cold winters condenses to water vapor penetrating the walls soaking the exterior wood and blistering your paint come spring.

You need to find the cause of any water penetration above where your paint is peeling. Any peeling areas will need to be thoroughly stripped, dried and any damage repaired before repainting. Hopefully good painters know all of this. If not, a good rule of thumb is to ASK qualifying questions before hiring and get previous customer recommendations to back it up.

Hard to Find Replacement Pull Handle

QUESTION:

Why can’t I find a replacement pull handle with 3 ¾” centers?

NICK'S ADVICE:

This is a common issue when choosing replacement handles. We find a style the customer wants but can’t find a matching size. A lot of kitchen cabinets made in the 1930’s and 1940’s had 3 ¾” pull centers (the distance between the two screw holes). Today 3” centers is the standard size. There are hundreds of cabinet knob manufactures and of course many sizes. Manufactures today will only make the standard sizes that match the common cabinets and furniture produced today. The odd sizes are not in demand as much. There are some suppliers reproducing odd period furniture hardware since many antique furniture pieces have odd sizes. We at Decorum Hardware in Portland represent most of the manufacturers of new reproduction and contemporary cabinet hardware. We can’t stock them all because there are just too many styles and sizes. However, we are certainly glad to special order so you get exactly what you want. If there is a style you like but the centers do not match, then your other option is to put a plate under the pull to cover the existing holes, or to choose a pull with a backplate by design. There are also a few options for bar pulls with sliding adjustable centers. On a piece of furniture or cabinet that is to be painted, new holes can be drilled to accept the desired pull size. The old holes can be filled-in and painted over. You can always make an inexpensive piece of furniture or kitchen cabinets look better, or even change the period by simply changing the hardware.

How to Stop that Annoying Faucet Drip

QUESTION:

How do I stop that annoying faucet drip? I’ve replaced the rubber gasket inside and in a matter of weeks it’s dripping again.

NICK'S ADVICE:

This is a standard daily question. It is not always as easy as simply replacing the little black gasket at the end of the stem. Most faucets are different in their inner make up. Over the past 20 years or so the new faucets have mostly changed over to ceramic discs.

Lets look at the older faucets first. BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY TO THE SINK YOU ARE WORKING ON. Remove the cross or lever handle from the faucet. Now back off the nut, which captures the valve stem, and twist out the valve stem (usually counter clockwise). Look at the large threads on the side if the valve. If they are very warn, the valve may be slipping past the body threads. This keeps the valve from seating tightly and can allow water to get past. This means it is time to replace the faucet. There is no fix. However, if the threads are good on the valve stem, then you should look at the seat (down in the bottom of the body). You will see a round ring seat. If it looks rough (chattered) or feels rough when you twist a finger over it, then it is tearing up the new black gasket you’ve been replacing. Usually found more on the hot side because the hot water over time has made the brass brittle thus cracking and chipping away at the seat. In the old days plumbers used to have tools to reseat the faucet. Today it is a lost art and would be too expensive to have done. Replacement faucets are cheaper to buy, however there is a company called George Taylor Specialties, Inc. in New York, NY which restores and renovates old faucets besides having many old replacement parts. There are also new faucets with ceramic discs that will out last the old ones.

The new faucets today have what is called a ceramic disc cartridge. See items 6 & 7 on the image below. Inside the cartridge are usually two ceramic discs shaped so that when the valve stem is turned the discs slide over each other thus opening or closing the valve. These rarely fail. Failure usually happens when a small spec of grit has found its way into the disc, thus cracking the ceramic discs. If one should fail, the retailer where you bought it can get you a replacement cartridge. Some better hardware stores have a fine selection along with a valve guide chart of replacement cartridge valves for most faucets.

If you feel handy, you can tackle this yourself. Be careful not to scratch the finish. I use a piece of leather over the securing nut and an adjustable wrench to loosen the capture nut. A plumber can always check any faucet out for you.

Well, now you know what causes that annoying drip…drip…drip.

Door Knobs, Locks, and Entrance Set Installation

QUESTION:

What information do I need in order to install a new door knob, lock or entrance set?

NICK'S ADVICE:

There are always a lot of door hardware questions. You cannot simply go out and buy a door set and snap it into the door. You really need to do your homework by taking some measurements of the door you wish to install. I’m going to try to keep this simple with help from the good folks at Baldwin Hardware. They really set the standard for quality door hardware and have the experience to back it up. You need to know the following terms (see diagrams for a visual explanation) for the measurements that will be needed.

BACKSET: The distance from the edge of the door to the center of the pre-drilled hole. Most doors come from the factory with a pre-drilled 2-1/8th hole. If there is no hole, then the measurement is usually from the center of the lock stile.

LOCK STILE WIDTH: The vertical face board/strip on the door knob side of the door. Measured from the vertical edge of the door to the start of the panel. The width of this area is critical in determining what lock will or will not fit in your door. Most doors have at least 4”stiles. The wider the stile the easier it is to fit the hardware.

HINGE STILE: The vertical face board/strip on the hinge side of the door.

BORE: The size of the pre-drilled or existing hole.

DOOR THICKNESS: The thickness of the door. Most are 1 3/8” for interior and 1 3/4”for exterior. Always measure this to be sure we have the correct thickness of your door.

HOLE SPACING: If your exterior door is prepped with two holes for a passage set and a locking deadbolt, then the distance between the two pre-drilled holes from center to center is the hole spacing.

HANDING: The way in which the door swings, from the left or the right and to the inside or outside. This can be confusing to most people. With a few rules of thumb it can be made very simple. Some locksets are reversible so handing does not come into play. Reversible means they can be used on a left or right hand swinging door. The good people at Precision Doors have written a good way to determine handing as follows:

1.) Forget everything that your friend, carpenter, builder or uncle Ed ever told you about door handing.

2.) Look at the door in question. Now, it should be pretty easy to tell which side of the door is the outside, and which side is the inside. Outside of a bedroom door you would be standing in the hallway. A bathroom door that is in a bedroom would have you standing in the bedroom. A door from the garage to the house would have you standing in the garage. ANY exterior door would have you standing outside looking in. If you are not sure which side is outside, ask us.

3.) ALL door handing is done from the OUTSIDE of the door. Whatever side the hinges are on, when viewed from the outside, this is the same as the door handing. If the hinges are on the right side, it’s a right hand door. If the hinges are on the left, it’s a left-hand door. PERIOD.

4.) That’s it. It’s never wrong. Forget everything else. You have now learned something most carpenters with 30 year’s experience STILL get wrong.

Here are some visuals to better understand door nomenclature:

Now you have the correct door terminology. This will save you from making a second trip to Decorum’s Door Hardware Department. Always go to a store where there are qualified door hardware personnel to help you. If you are building, your Architect usually draws up a door hardware schedule of all the doors. This schedule usually shows the handing of all the doors. You are now ready to pick out the period, styles and finishes you desire. We are always willing to help you out with any questions you may have.

Toilet Flush Issues

QUESTION:

How do I know if these new 1.6 gallon "code" toilets will do the job?

NICK'S ADVICE:

While selling toilets at Decorum, the question asked most about 1.6-gallon flush toilets are, “will it do the job?” Toilets today are required by code to have 1.6-gallon tanks to conserve water. All toilets in the market do the job, some better than others. The problem is not the toilet. It is the old pipes in and out of the house. If you still have the old iron pipes, without maintenance over the years sediment will build up on the inside walls narrowing the diameter of the pipe, which carries the waste. As a result, the 1.6 gallons is sometimes not enough to flush the waste all the way out to the city sewer or your septic system, which can cause a back up. Remember that it is not necessarily the toilet but your pipes. When replacing or buying a new toilet, consider the pipe arrangement in the cellar as well.There are two ways to improve the water flow in your pipes:

1.) In an old house when replacing with a 1.6-gallon toilet, have the pipes cleaned as far as the plumber can go to clean out old sediment build-up thus widening the pipe diameter for better flow.

2.) The toilet waste collector pipe from the different toilets in your home should be the last pipe to dump into the exit pipe before it leaves through the foundation of your house. Therefore, all of the other water sources (shower/tub, dishwasher, washing machine and sink water) are before the toilet exit thus giving more waste water push in your drainage system. When building new, plan this pipe arrangement with the contractor. If you have old plumbing, have your plumber rearrange the pipes in the cellar so the toilet wastewater is the last out. This will save you future problems and expenses.

Your 1.6-gallon toilet can now do the job it is supposed to do.

Here are a couple of unique toilet options from Decorum Hardware:

1.) Oak Pull Chain Toilet/Watercloset
2.) Pill Toilet/Watercloset

How to Restore and Protect a Slate Sink

QUESTION:

My black slate sink turns to light gray with sediment build up around the drain and tends to weep along the under-edge. What can I do to protect and eliminate this problem?

NICK'S ADVICE:

That is one of the most asked questions I get since I sell new and used slate and soapstone sinks. Both stones are easily sanded. Use an orbital or vibrating sander with fine 220 or finer wet/dry type sandpaper. Scotch Brite has some pads, which attach to hook type disc pads. You don't need to use them wet. Wear a dust mask and have a vacuum running with the hose laying near your work to keep the dust to a minimum. Sand until there is a smooth and uniform finish. Chips in the surface and edge can be feathered out. The fine sandpaper will bring your surface to a smooth finish. Vacuum any remaining dust.

At this point you want to seal the inside seams to prevent the sink from weeping water from the underside. Slate and soapstone sinks usually leak because the caulk used in their construction becomes brittle and cracked. We have better products today in the construction of new sinks. To seal the seams in your old sink, you will need to get some Marine "Boat Life" black deck caulk. Get "black" for slate and "clear" for soapstone sinks. It comes in liquid (for tight seams) or paste (for large gaps). One tube is usually enough for a 36" x 24" sink. Scribe out the seams to get out any loose sediment and old caulk with a sharp tool. Vacuum to remove sediment. The caulk comes in a toothpaste type tube with a long nipple. Knead the tube a little before opening to be sure the contents are thoroughly mixed. Cut the smallest tip off the nipple as marked. Do a test run on a piece of paper to get your flow understood. Now you can run an even bead of caulk along all the inside seams of the sink. It should just contour along the seam, but if you leave any excess you can run your finger along the seam to make your own smooth contour.

After allowing 48 hours to cure you are now ready to do some finishing steps. The nice thing about Boat Life Caulking is it can be sanded so that any excess at this point can be sanded away. Vacuum any remaining debris. Rinse out and wash down the sanded walls, then allow it to dry. To stop the "food plaque" from building up around the drain and to allow the water to bead on the stone surface, apply mineral oil to your sink. Just wipe some on with an old cloth evenly to a dark finish.

Wow! Can you believe that was your old sink?